Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Anebos is a small sandstone tower on the Trifels ridge and like many others in the area it was once used as a foundation on which to build a castle. In the 12th century the Lords of Anebos, marshals to the German Emperor Heinrich VI, lived there for about a century. Today all that remains is the heavily scarred but natural rock and several climbing routes top out on its summit, the easiest of which is Normalweg (or standard route) shown in red. Local guidebooks give it a II rating which equates to 5.2 using typical conversion tables. Don't let that "easy" rating fool you though... even though this climb isn't too difficult there is no good way of protecting it and the crux is quite overhung and more like 5.5 in our opinion.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Looking up at the crux overhang. I have no idea to what extent this feature is the result of human modification but its definately a wild little obstacle. Although the holds are bomber once you find them, you still have to pull the steep moves over considerable air. It felt like a gym climb and was a lot of fun! These couple of moves would probably be rated at least 5.5 in Boulder Canyon.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
To get onto the tower Dominic stems between its southwest corner and the adjacent rock.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Pulling over the large gap requires commitment and a bit of a heave.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Once on the tower proper a lone bolt in the massive roof overhead serves as very poor "protection". A fall from the crux overhang would result in one hell of a pendulum and if you didn't deck out you'd surely smash into the rock you just used to stem up to the ledge.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Dominic prepares to give me a belay from above the roof.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Next up: a little staircase carved into the sandstone!
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
The reconstructed Trifels Castle, largest fortification in the area.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Dominic on Anebos. Sharfenberg Castle can be seen on the hill in the background.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Looking down from the summit plateau onto the ledge above the overhang. Funky 4th class.
Anebos via Normalweg Südpfalz, Germany June 28, 2011
Dominic above the town of Annweiler and a sea of green.
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011
Anebos is a small sandstone tower on the Trifels ridge and like many others in the area it was once used as a foundation on which to build a castle. In the 12th century the Lords of Anebos, marshals to the German Emperor Heinrich VI, lived there for about a century. Today all that remains is the heavily scarred but natural rock and several climbing routes top out on its summit, the easiest of which is Normalweg (or standard route) shown in red. Local guidebooks give it a II rating which equates to 5.2 using typical conversion tables. Don't let that "easy" rating fool you though... even though this climb isn't too difficult there is no good way of protecting it and the crux is quite overhung and more like 5.5 in our opinion.