P1030366mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011

Anebos is a small sandstone tower on the Trifels ridge and like many others in the area it was once used as a foundation on which to build a castle. In the 12th century the Lords of Anebos, marshals to the German Emperor Heinrich VI, lived there for about a century. Today all that remains is the heavily scarred but natural rock and several climbing routes top out on its summit, the easiest of which is Normalweg (or standard route) shown in red. Local guidebooks give it a II rating which equates to 5.2 using typical conversion tables. Don't let that "easy" rating fool you though... even though this climb isn't too difficult there is no good way of protecting it and the crux is quite overhung and more like 5.5 in our opinion.
P1030425mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Looking up at the crux overhang. I have no idea to what extent this feature is the result of human modification but its definately a wild little obstacle. Although the holds are bomber once you find them, you still have to pull the steep moves over considerable air. It felt like a gym climb and was a lot of fun! These couple of moves would probably be rated at least 5.5 in Boulder Canyon.
P1030426mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


To get onto the tower Dominic stems between its southwest corner and the adjacent rock.
P1030427mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Pulling over the large gap requires commitment and a bit of a heave.
P1030429mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Once on the tower proper a lone bolt in the massive roof overhead serves as very poor "protection". A fall from the crux overhang would result in one hell of a pendulum and if you didn't deck out you'd surely smash into the rock you just used to stem up to the ledge.
P1030431mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Dominic prepares to give me a belay from above the roof.
P1030432mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Next up: a little staircase carved into the sandstone!
P1030433mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


The reconstructed Trifels Castle, largest fortification in the area.
P1030435mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Dominic on Anebos. Sharfenberg Castle can be seen on the hill in the background.
P1030441mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Looking down from the summit plateau onto the ledge above the overhang. Funky 4th class.
P1030438mod
Anebos via Normalweg
Südpfalz, Germany
June 28, 2011


Dominic above the town of Annweiler and a sea of green.