Passing below the summit of El Diente at the base of the steep cliffs on the south face. The snow is firm and perfect for cramponing.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
This route was laid out by our friends John & Dan the day before. You can see their now frozen late afternoon descent tracks (it had been a very hot, sunny day and they summitted after 3pm).
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Traversing east near the base of the south face to shortcut to the more standard route which stays down in the basin longer.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
The snow is well consolidated by winter standards. It almost feels like we're doing a spring snow climb!
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
The summit pops into sight.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Running out of snow as we approach EL Diente's east ridge.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic climbs an icy, chossy obstacle to gain a ledge/ramp system above.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic traversing west toward the summit on the ramp/ledge system.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
I think this is the standard summer route.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
At the end of the ramp system this gully yields easy access to the summit ridge.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
This little gully marks the end of the enjoyable south slopes snow climbing today.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic nearing the 14,000 foot mark.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
From the point at which we crest the ridge Dominic takes a gander at what lies ahead along the standard finish on the north side. Snow conditions are not worrisome and it looks like we could safely piece something together but we decide the direct finish via the ridge itself is the better option.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Wilson Peak, which we climbed the day before.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic ready to love some tiny little crampon holds on the exposed ridge crest.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
This is certainly a place to be very vigilant in your lookout for big loose death blocks.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
I think Dominic could have broken off that chunk with his hands.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
I like squeezing. It makes me feel safe :)
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic under the true summit.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
The ascent's taken 8:30 and there's a cold wind on the summit so we begin the descent in short order. Its a looooooong road home.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic makes some careful moves across a slab. Mount Wilson is in the background.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
The section of ridge behind Dominic required some composure. Whether I like it or not I am becoming a much better crampon scrambler. Even though I was a little spooked at first I ended up enjoying this ridge very much.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Back to the snow...
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Descending the initial gully.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic traversing snowy ledges below the ridge.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Dominic passing under El Diente's south face.
El Diente Winter Ascent January 15, 2012
Parting shot of El Diente and upper Kilpacker Basin.
January 15, 2012
Passing below the summit of El Diente at the base of the steep cliffs on the south face. The snow is firm and perfect for cramponing.