Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Looking out one of the famous windows, down the Eiger Nordwand! Yikes!
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Looking out one of the famous windows, down the Eiger Nordwand! Yikes!
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Hmmm... so much for our weather window. Today is supposed to be nice but instead we exit the train station and are immediately enveloped in a thick fog. Walking along the well-marked route across the glacier is creepy enough; spirits are running low for summitting anything on this trip... very painful seeing as the train rides alone are costing us about $500!
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Hmmm... so much for our weather window. Today is supposed to be nice but instead we exit the train station and are immediately enveloped in a thick fog. Walking along the well-marked route across the glacier is creepy enough; spirits are running low for summitting anything on this trip... very painful seeing as the train rides alone are costing us about $500!
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The standard route up the Monch begins about halfway between the train station at Jungfraujoch (joch = saddle) and the Monchsjochhutte (where we plan on staying tonight). Two seemingly experienced, Swiss climbers descend as we hike along the glacier toward the hut and report that they turned around due to dangerous conditions; nobody has summitted in a day or more and there is a lot of fresh snow up high. We linger at the turnoff for a while, wasting time to see what the group of 4 Austrian climbers we met on the train is going to do (they have the same agenda as us and have been up the Monch before, once in poor conditions). They quickly decide to give it a go and we tag along.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The standard route up the Monch begins about halfway between the train station at Jungfraujoch (joch = saddle) and the Monchsjochhutte (where we plan on staying tonight). Two seemingly experienced, Swiss climbers descend as we hike along the glacier toward the hut and report that they turned around due to dangerous conditions; nobody has summitted in a day or more and there is a lot of fresh snow up high. We linger at the turnoff for a while, wasting time to see what the group of 4 Austrian climbers we met on the train is going to do (they have the same agenda as us and have been up the Monch before, once in poor conditions). They quickly decide to give it a go and we tag along.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic postholes his way toward the toe of the southeast spur of the East Ridge. There has clearly been significant snowfall lately. At least the fog is beginning to lift!
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic postholes his way toward the toe of the southeast spur of the East Ridge. There has clearly been significant snowfall lately. At least the fog is beginning to lift!
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Looking east from the base of the climb. I believe this fine looking peak is called Trugberg. Tourists can be seen walking between Jungfraujoch and Monchsjochhutte; this seems to be a very popular hike and takes less than an hour. The Swiss flag in the lower right corner of the picture marks the turnoff for the Monch.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Looking east from the base of the climb. I believe this fine looking peak is called Trugberg. Tourists can be seen walking between Jungfraujoch and Monchsjochhutte; this seems to be a very popular hike and takes less than an hour. The Swiss flag in the lower right corner of the picture marks the turnoff for the Monch.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic leads the way up snowy & icy 3rd & 4th class rock. When you climb in the Alps it quickly becomes obvious that very different techniques are typically employed. You won't see many people pitching things out; shortrope techniques are the norm. The terrain is usually steep and exposed but its not terribly difficult. Terrain belays often work well at tricky spots. Climbers have to be confident in their abilities; the weather and other objective risks are high and setting up solid belays and pitching it out costs too much precious time... not to mention the likely plethora of other climbers on the route probably won't be very happy with you.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic leads the way up snowy & icy 3rd & 4th class rock. When you climb in the Alps it quickly becomes obvious that very different techniques are typically employed. You won't see many people pitching things out; shortrope techniques are the norm. The terrain is usually steep and exposed but its not terribly difficult. Terrain belays often work well at tricky spots. Climbers have to be confident in their abilities; the weather and other objective risks are high and setting up solid belays and pitching it out costs too much precious time... not to mention the likely plethora of other climbers on the route probably won't be very happy with you.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Ice hanging from the rock makes the scrambling seem more difficult than it really is. This part of the route is often bone dry.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Ice hanging from the rock makes the scrambling seem more difficult than it really is. This part of the route is often bone dry.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Austrian group makes their way up behind us.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Austrian group makes their way up behind us.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic takes a seat to give me a tight rope for one slightly uncomfortable section.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic takes a seat to give me a tight rope for one slightly uncomfortable section.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
As we pass a weather station its clear that the fog is rolling back in...
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
As we pass a weather station its clear that the fog is rolling back in...
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic scrambles up a tricky part; I plant the shaft of my axe for an anchor.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic scrambles up a tricky part; I plant the shaft of my axe for an anchor.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Now on the East Ridge proper, things are about to get a whole lot more interesting. Dominic investigates the knife edge snow ridge as I give him an ice ax belay. Right now my risk tolerance is being tested and I think I'm close to a panic attack. When we made the plan to climb this peak by ourselves we were banking on two things to help us feel comfortable and safe enough: (1) A well-beaten path across the knife edge snow ridges, and (2) hordes of other people around. We have neither. The weather is horrible and the wind is really picking up. Dominic comes back and we wait to see what the Austrians will do.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Now on the East Ridge proper, things are about to get a whole lot more interesting. Dominic investigates the knife edge snow ridge as I give him an ice ax belay. Right now my risk tolerance is being tested and I think I'm close to a panic attack. When we made the plan to climb this peak by ourselves we were banking on two things to help us feel comfortable and safe enough: (1) A well-beaten path across the knife edge snow ridges, and (2) hordes of other people around. We have neither. The weather is horrible and the wind is really picking up. Dominic comes back and we wait to see what the Austrians will do.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Austrian team crests the East Ridge proper in deteriorating conditions.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Austrian team crests the East Ridge proper in deteriorating conditions.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Austrians retreat as well. One team member in particular is paralyzed with fear on the sharp ridge. Good call. Two hours later they made a phone call for meteorological info and told us there were 80km winds up on the ridge... not good when balance is of the utmost importance.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Austrians retreat as well. One team member in particular is paralyzed with fear on the sharp ridge. Good call. Two hours later they made a phone call for meteorological info and told us there were 80km winds up on the ridge... not good when balance is of the utmost importance.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Monchsjochhutte, home for the night.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Monchsjochhutte, home for the night.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Consolation prize, round one: Monchsjochkaffee (coffee with plum liquor and whipped cream). We'd hoped to climb at least the Monch AND Jungfrau on this trip but Jungfrau is totally out of the question at the moment; nobody has been up it in two weeks and its a fairly serious undertaking, not one for us to tackle alone right now. According to the forecast tomorrow's weather was supposed to be a bit worse than today's, but then again today was supposed to be 100% nice and it was horrid. We're keeping our fingers crossed that we'll have a 2nd chance at the Monch tomorrow before escaping to avoid a heavy incoming snowstorm the following day.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Consolation prize, round one: Monchsjochkaffee (coffee with plum liquor and whipped cream). We'd hoped to climb at least the Monch AND Jungfrau on this trip but Jungfrau is totally out of the question at the moment; nobody has been up it in two weeks and its a fairly serious undertaking, not one for us to tackle alone right now. According to the forecast tomorrow's weather was supposed to be a bit worse than today's, but then again today was supposed to be 100% nice and it was horrid. We're keeping our fingers crossed that we'll have a 2nd chance at the Monch tomorrow before escaping to avoid a heavy incoming snowstorm the following day.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
A long afternoon in the wind-whipped hut led to some bored picture taking. No peeing on the floor, guys.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
A long afternoon in the wind-whipped hut led to some bored picture taking. No peeing on the floor, guys.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Consolation prize, round two: Weissbier. Dominic, the pro-wheat-bear-pourer, fails miserably. The wind is still howling. The skies are still grey. Our chances at the Monch tomorrow are clearly slim, but isn't that what alcohol is for?
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Consolation prize, round two: Weissbier. Dominic, the pro-wheat-bear-pourer, fails miserably. The wind is still howling. The skies are still grey. Our chances at the Monch tomorrow are clearly slim, but isn't that what alcohol is for?
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic exits the bathroom which is located on the back porch. The weather continues to be miserable and wind pounds the hut all afternoon. This is a very popular hut and it looks like it can easily sleep 100 people. As a testament to the bad weather and conditions: WE ARE THE ONLY GUESTS TONIGHT!!! Rather bizarre, just us and the staff! Are we complete fools?
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic exits the bathroom which is located on the back porch. The weather continues to be miserable and wind pounds the hut all afternoon. This is a very popular hut and it looks like it can easily sleep 100 people. As a testament to the bad weather and conditions: WE ARE THE ONLY GUESTS TONIGHT!!! Rather bizarre, just us and the staff! Are we complete fools?
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
We awake to blue skies; its a new day. Still a bit windy but the Monch is worth another shot. We leave the hut at the very un-alpine time of 8:30.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
We awake to blue skies; its a new day. Still a bit windy but the Monch is worth another shot. We leave the hut at the very un-alpine time of 8:30.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic & the Monch on a stunning morning in the Alps.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic & the Monch on a stunning morning in the Alps.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The top of Jungfrau [4,158 m] is finally revealed. The standard route that we'd hoped to climb on this trip goes to the saddle left of the summit and follows the ridge from there. The train station exit (Jungfraujoch) is at the base of the little rocky tower in the bottom right corner of this photo. Crazy!
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The top of Jungfrau [4,158 m] is finally revealed. The standard route that we'd hoped to climb on this trip goes to the saddle left of the summit and follows the ridge from there. The train station exit (Jungfraujoch) is at the base of the little rocky tower in the bottom right corner of this photo. Crazy!
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Aletschhorn [4,193 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Aletschhorn [4,193 m]
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Today the lower rock portion seems to have a little less snow and a little more ice. Regardless, climbing it in the sun is definately much better than climbing it in a cloud.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Today the lower rock portion seems to have a little less snow and a little more ice. Regardless, climbing it in the sun is definately much better than climbing it in a cloud.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The route is fresh in our minds from yesterday's failed attempt and we greet the tricker sections like old friends.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The route is fresh in our minds from yesterday's failed attempt and we greet the tricker sections like old friends.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
We set our eyes on the corniced summit ridge for the first time; yesterday we couldn't see that far.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
We set our eyes on the corniced summit ridge for the first time; yesterday we couldn't see that far.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Well, here we are again at that intimidating knife-edge snow ridge. There's still no worn track, still no other climbing parties around, but its an awe-inspiring day and even though conditions aren't exactly ideal, we've somehow managed to get one of the most popular 4000ers to ourselves, in virgin condition, ripe enough for the picking if we so choose. Let's do this!
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Well, here we are again at that intimidating knife-edge snow ridge. There's still no worn track, still no other climbing parties around, but its an awe-inspiring day and even though conditions aren't exactly ideal, we've somehow managed to get one of the most popular 4000ers to ourselves, in virgin condition, ripe enough for the picking if we so choose. Let's do this!
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Balance is key and the wind is quite unnerving in one or two places. Slow and steady...
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Balance is key and the wind is quite unnerving in one or two places. Slow and steady...
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
On a typical day I don't think this narrow snow ridge poses too much difficulty because there's usually a well-beaten track across it. Today its a different story; a razor sharp edge with 60-70 degree slopes on either side proves to be the crux of the climb for us. Dominic slowly and carefully makes his way across as I give a poor ice axe belay (an ice screw would have worked much better here; I could only get the pick of my axe in). Unfortunately this section is well over 60 meters and we had to simulclimb unprotected for a while which made me nervous.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
On a typical day I don't think this narrow snow ridge poses too much difficulty because there's usually a well-beaten track across it. Today its a different story; a razor sharp edge with 60-70 degree slopes on either side proves to be the crux of the climb for us. Dominic slowly and carefully makes his way across as I give a poor ice axe belay (an ice screw would have worked much better here; I could only get the pick of my axe in). Unfortunately this section is well over 60 meters and we had to simulclimb unprotected for a while which made me nervous.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
More iced up rock on the narrow ridge is quickly overcome using a couple of conveniently placed rods for anchorage.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
More iced up rock on the narrow ridge is quickly overcome using a couple of conveniently placed rods for anchorage.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic belays me up a rocky section by wrapping the rope around one of the rods.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic belays me up a rocky section by wrapping the rope around one of the rods.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Finally other climbers appear behind us; this speedy pair of Swiss climbers is tackling the most difficult rock step.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Finally other climbers appear behind us; this speedy pair of Swiss climbers is tackling the most difficult rock step.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic leads the way up the heavily corniced summit ridge. An old track buried under the new snow helps inspire confidence.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic leads the way up the heavily corniced summit ridge. An old track buried under the new snow helps inspire confidence.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Swiss climbers are hot on our heels but are happy to let Dominic stomp out a track.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Swiss climbers are hot on our heels but are happy to let Dominic stomp out a track.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The cornice looks lovely. I try not to think about where I am and what I am doing; I am at peace with the cornice and can somehow actually enjoy the moment.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The cornice looks lovely. I try not to think about where I am and what I am doing; I am at peace with the cornice and can somehow actually enjoy the moment.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic reels me in upon reaching the summit.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic reels me in upon reaching the summit.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
A solo French climber joins the four of us on the summit. None of us stay long; the weather is changing.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
A solo French climber joins the four of us on the summit. None of us stay long; the weather is changing.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Aletsch Glacier, largest glacier in the Alps.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Aletsch Glacier, largest glacier in the Alps.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Eiger as seen from the Monch.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Eiger as seen from the Monch.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Time to head out. The growing clouds make nifty shadows on the glacier below.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Time to head out. The growing clouds make nifty shadows on the glacier below.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic begins to downclimb the trickiest rock step as I give him a terrain belay using a convenient horn below.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Dominic begins to downclimb the trickiest rock step as I give him a terrain belay using a convenient horn below.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
An amazing ridge: sometimes rock, sometimes snow, but always pointy and exposed.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
An amazing ridge: sometimes rock, sometimes snow, but always pointy and exposed.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Monch as seen from Kleine Scheidegg, the station at which you must stop and change trains between Grindelwald and Jungfraujoch.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Monch as seen from Kleine Scheidegg, the station at which you must stop and change trains between Grindelwald and Jungfraujoch.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Jungfrau as seen from Kleine Scheidegg.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Jungfrau as seen from Kleine Scheidegg.
Monch [4,107 m]
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Eiger and its famous Nordwand as seen from Kleine Scheidegg.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
The Eiger and its famous Nordwand as seen from Kleine Scheidegg.
Bernese Alps, Switzerland
Std Route from Monchsjochhutte
June 20 - 21, 2011
Ready to catch the train from Grindelwald to Jungfraujoch. This unbelieveable train route goes THROUGH the Eiger and is an incredible engineering feat. At $120 EACH WAY it is definately a little painful on the pocketbook, but it makes for a fast and easy approach and lets you experience some of the great history of the Alps. The operation typically generates over $700,000 from ticket sales each day! The infamous Eiger Nordwand towers over the small town of Grindelwald which is home to some of the most elite climbers in the Alps.