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  • Winter closure at the west end of the Dunton Road. This winter trailhead can only be accessed via a turnoff a couple miles west of the small town of Stoner, adding a significant amount of driving time to the already very long trip from the front range. width:640;;height:360
  • Dwight and Dominic prepare for the long trek ahead while Ken and John finish packing up in John's massive sportsmobile. width:640;;height:360
  • To reach the Navajo Lake Trailhead we hike 2.7 miles north and east along the well-tracked road. width:640;;height:360
  • Dwight crosses a bridge over the West Dolores River as we more-or-less follow the Navajo Lake Trail. width:270;;height:480
  • The trenching isn't easy but it could be worse. width:640;;height:360
  • El Diente pops into view. We're headed for treeline up there in Kilpacker Basin. width:640;;height:360
  • Dominic does some wallowing in the trees after we stop following the Navajo Lake Trail and head toward Kilpacker Basin. width:270;;height:480
  • A better look at El Diente as we near camp... looking mighty snowy... and there have been some avalanches recently. Hopes are not running very high at this point. width:640;;height:360
  • Saturday morning we set out to explore whether we can even get into upper Kilpacker Basin. There is plenty of slide terrain to negotiate. width:640;;height:360
  • We fiight their way up through steep willows to avoid open snow slopes. width:640;;height:360
  • So far no signs of instability so we carefully begin to traverse under the snowy south slopes of El Diente. width:640;;height:360
  • El Diente's southwest face. We will end up attempting an unknown line up this tomorrow. width:640;;height:360
  • Dwight and John hike over old avalanche debris. We could see that this slide originated high on the face (crown was visible). width:640;;height:360
  • John, Dwight and Dominic continue higher into Kilpacker Basin. width:270;;height:480
  • I would not want to be up here in worse conditions. width:640;;height:360
  • The basin seems to go on forever but its beautiful. width:640;;height:360
  • El Diente's south face. The standard route is buried somewhere in there. It doesn't look too scary... from this angle. width:640;;height:360
  • Hmmm... not looking so good a few minutes later. Pretty loaded. width:640;;height:360
  • On and on we go. width:640;;height:360
  • The southwest face of Mount Wilson finally comes into view. width:640;;height:360
  • Looking back toward Point 13,428. width:640;;height:342
  • We decide to confront a short, steep slope below some rocks to avoid traversing easier terrain under some scary looking slopes to the west. Better to have 30 feet slide than many hundred. The snow inspires confidence; still no signs of instability though there is clearly a distinct storm layer on top. width:640;;height:360
  • Oh boy, 500 feet shy of the summit and we nearly have a show stopper. The slope leading into the southwest couloir is loaded and rather intimidating. Should we or shouldn't we? Discussion ensues. Maybe we can protect the worst of it. Dominic and Dwight head up deep snow to a rock outcropping above as John and I nervously watch from a distance. Dominic reports the snow feels ok and Dwight measures it to be around 30 degrees. John and I wait until they reach the rocks just in case. width:640;;height:360
  • John begins up the suspect slope behind me. width:640;;height:360
  • Dwight and Dominic prepare to set up a good anchor in the rocks to protect the traverse into the couloir. width:640;;height:360
  • Looking up Mount Wilson's southwest couloir. Plenty of spindrift today. width:640;;height:360
  • Now roped up, John begins to wallow across the snow slope toward the protection of another rock outcropping. width:640;;height:360
  • So far so good. width:640;;height:360
  • We breathe a sigh of relief when he's on the other side. width:640;;height:360
  • Now simulclimbing, Dwight follows John while Dominic leads across on a second rope. John places protection in the eastern wall of the couloir. width:640;;height:360
  • Looking up the southwest couloir. width:640;;height:360
  • South Wilson sits to the south of a saddle in Mount Wilson's south ridge. Getting up to this saddle looked much more appealing from an avalanche standpoint but we had a feeling the south ridge would be very difficult. width:640;;height:360
  • Partway up the southwest couloir we make a hard right in order to execute Nolan's Fabulous Finish that avoids the standard 4th class ridge climb. width:640;;height:360
  • Climbing over a snowy rock step is kind of tricky but only takes a few moves. width:640;;height:360
  • After this obstacle we put the ropes away. width:270;;height:480
  • Looking back at our exit point from the main couloir. El Diente commands attention from a distance. width:270;;height:480
  • El Diente and connecting ridge. width:640;;height:360
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  • Dwight and Dominic nearing the top of the smaller branch of the couloir and Mount Wilson's south ridge. width:640;;height:360
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  • A few minutes of easy scrambling and we're on top! Dwight topping out. width:640;;height:350
  • Wilson Peak and Gladstone Peak width:640;;height:349
  • Lizard Head and a sea of peaks to the east. width:640;;height:356
  • El Diente from Mount Wilson. width:640;;height:352
  • Dominic begins the descent. width:281;;height:480
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  • Once again we protect the snowy traverse out of the southwest couloir. width:270;;height:480
  • Dominic and Dwight descend back into upper Kilpacker Basin. width:640;;height:360
  • Easy going from here. width:640;;height:360
  • The sun is about to set on El Diente. width:640;;height:360
  • Classic alpenglow on El Diente as seen from our camp. width:640;;height:383
  • John and Dominic at camp. width:640;;height:360
  • Dwight and Ken at camp. width:270;;height:480
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