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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


The famous Crystal Mill as seen on the approach hike from Marble to Geneva Lake.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


After a long afternoon and evening spent in the tent listening to the snow fall Dwight & I awake to a clear day for our summit attempt!
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


A hint of the old snowshoe track we followed from Lead King Basin to Geneva Lake. Unfortunately this is where our paths diverge.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Dwight breaking trail through deep powder en route to Snowmass' West Face. We'd hoped to be able to construct a trench yesterday after reaching camp but the weather was just too nasty.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Passing slightly east of Little Gem Lake.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Hiking under the large West Face of Snowmass Mountain.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Dwight approaching our gear up spot at the base of the West Face. The best route up this expansive face isn't totally obvious but based on a previous failed attempt and some research we think we know what's worth trying at least.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


As I expected, getting past the initial cliff band and up onto the face proves to be nontrivial. Last time in very different conditions we used a rope here and climbed a slightly different line. Today Dwight doesn't want to test a short but questionable snow slope which appears to provide the easiest passage and instead climbs loose snow and awkward rock on the side of it. I take a belay and our 30 meter rope is all but maxed out. No rapping this...
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Dwight begins up the steep lower portion of the face.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


We try to hop between rock islands...
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


...because the snow is deep and tiring.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


We're now following the same route we did on that failed attmept. Please take us somewhere good...
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Boulders buried in deep snow are obnoxious but their anchorage is most welcomed.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


The rib we're following sharpens up and we avoid the crest for a bit by dropping to its left. Its not that the scrambling up there is overly difficult; stacks of loose, people crushing boulders scare me.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Well hello again my friend. Capitol Peak pops into view.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


These are some of the scary boulders notorious for crushing people. Found a couple of huge movers today.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


The rib sharpens again up ahead and this time we drop to its right side.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Looking across the west face down to Geneva Lake.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Looking back at Dwight as I catch summit fever.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Capitol Peak
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


There seems to be no end to the tedious going. Every step has to be felt out before being executed because of the dang unpredictable rock under the snow. Ankles twist and turn.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


As we near the top we start to feel some exposure on our left.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Its around 1pm and we're still laboring away.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


We traverse under the summit ridge toward what looks like the summit.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


I stop and "give Dwight the honors" hoping to snap a picture of him scrambling to the actual summit...
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Turns out I've given him a different kind of honor: leading a short but intense little traverse to the true summit that we can't see from here.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


True summit ahead, scary exposure to our right. We traverse some little ledges below the ridge crest. With snow and loose rock. Yay! I have to tell myself to suck it up and do it, I mean the winter 14ers aren't supposed to be easy. The rope stays stowed.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Dwight on the unique summit of Snowmass Mountain. Its about 1:45.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Classic shot of Capitol Peak from Snowmass Mountain.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


The Bells (background, center) and Hagerman Peak.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


View toward Geneva Lake. Interesting clouds all day.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Dwight reversing the traverse. Intense but short.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


A fall from here would be several hundred feet.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Let the grueling descent begin.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Capitol Peak yet again.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


How many times did we fall in a hole or get our foot twisted around? Way too many to ever consider gridding on Snowmass.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Dwight downclimbing the short snow slope at the base of the face. He kindly let me rappel single strand first :). Thanks Dwight.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


As we make our exit high winds materialize. Seems like we're just in time. Soon they're be gusting to concerning levels.
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Snowmass Mountain Winter Ascent
January 7 - 9, 2012


Parting shot of the base of the west face.