Peak Name: The Organ

Peak Height: 5,080'

Location: Zion National Park

Route: Southeast Chimney

Trailhead: Weeping Rock

Difficulty: 5.6 R

Length of Climb: 6 pitches

Round Trip Stats: 1 mi, 800 ft

Date Climbed: 11/22/2015

The Organ juts out into the Virgin River just east of Angels Landing, forcing the water to flow around it on three out of four sides. It rises no more than 800 feet from the canyon floor, but is steep on all sides. All routes to the summit are real rock climbs requiring substantial fifth class climbing.

This one's been on our wish list for years but two factors have conspired against it. First, its often too cold in Zion to do any sustained rock climbing at Thanksgiving time. Second, the most reasonable summit route is quite runout... as in no gear on some pitches.

The Southeast Chimney was first climbed in 1978 by Jim Beyer & Courtney Simpkinsand and isn't often repeated. The route is unique in that almost every pitch involves some sort of chimney. Hero Dom led the whole thing comfortably; protectionless chimneys are a strongsuit of his. Good thing because they're certainly not one of mine!




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