Castle Peak's East Face & Malemute Peak

May 20-21, 2009

An unpopular but interesting snow climb with an overnight stay at the Tagert Hut

Tagert Hut

Tagert Hut

This time of year its only about a one hour backpack to the Tagert Hut which is located along the Pearl Pass Road. With solar power, a stove for cooking, a woodstove for heat, and a sink to wash dishes, this place seemed luxurious! Adam and Pete took advantage of the sled stored in the outhouse for some afternoon fun on the slope behind the cabin.

Tagert Hut outhouse

Outhouse with a boardwalk

The outhouse was connected to the hut via a nice boardwalk so we didn't have to walk in the snow! A woodpecker spent many hours eating bugs out of the log that functions as the vent.

Starting up Castle's East Face

Starting up Castle's East Face

Pete starting up Castle Peak's East Face at sunrise. The infamous dust layer that blew in from the desert this past winter is very obvious. Its ugly, the skiers hate it, and it is causing the snow to melt more rapidly, but conditions are great for snow climbing!

High on Castle's East Face

High on Castle's East Face

Adam, Jim & Kurt take a breather high on Castle Peak's East Face.

Peeps

Topping out

Pete topping out after the snow climb of Castle Peak's East Face. From here the summit is just a short jaunt up the ridge.

Y Couloir

Malemute Peak

Malemute Peak as seen from the descent into Montezuma Basin. We traversed snow to reach the ridge on the left side and followed the ridge to the summit.

Y Couloir

Heading for Malemute

We traversed high above Montezuma Basin to reach the west ridge of Malemute Peak.

Y Couloir

Malemute's West Ridge

Malemute's west ridge is a short, fun, 3rd class romp.

Topping out Y Couloir

Castle Peak's East Face

Castle Peak's East Face as seen from the summit of Malemute Peak. From this vantage point it looks deceptively steep and difficult. We found it to be an easy snow climb, but Lou Dawson says that it is rarely climbed because its almost never in condition. I guess we lucked out!

Topping out Y Couloir

The Pearls

Pearl Mountain and "West Pearl Mountain" from Malemute Peak. Dwight, Jamie & I climbed these two relatively easy 13ers less than a week ago.

Topping out Y Couloir

Malemute descent

The most popular way of descending Malemute Peak seems to be to retrace your steps down the west ridge. However, we spotted a steep couloir almost directly under the summit that provided a quick descent on soft snow and then friendly scree back to the road in Montezuma Basin.




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