Northern & Southern Dinosaur Eggs

May 17, 2009

Two short, technical (5.5) climbs to the tops of interesting rock formations in the Flatirons

Northern Dinosaur Egg's East Face

Northern Dinosaur Egg's East Face

The East Face of the Northern Dinosaur Egg. The deep crack on the left splits the face and is the start of a route called Rehatch (5.5). The name is very appropriate because it looks as if something has hatched, cracking open the egg. 

Rehatch, pitch 1

Rehatch, pitch 1

The huge crack is actually an interesting, deep chimney that is mostly stiff 4th (arguably very low 5th) class climbing. Even though guidebooks label this pitch 4th class, it is usually climbed roped and I was certainly happy to have one. 

Rehatch, base of crux

Rehatch, base of crux

Eventually some large chockstones in the chimney mark the exit point. The crux of the route is a 20 foot climb out of the chimney and up the steep south face to reach the narrow east face of the main pinnacle. Here Dominic is standing on one of the chockstones and not looking happy about the crux pitch he's faced with. It was a little awkward and seemed tougher than its 5.5 rating.

Rehatch, upper east face

Rehatch, upper east face

Dominic leading the final 5.0 - 5.4 climb up the east face of the main pinnacle.

Lizard visiting me as I belay

Visitor

This little guy visited me for a long time at the belay station. Fat and missing part of his tail, he was actually quite cute. He sometimes bobbed his head kind of like my iguanas do. He closely inspected the pieces of the anchor I was using to belay Dominic from and made an impressive exit by downclimbing overhanging rock!

Top of Southern Dinosaur Egg

Top of Southern Dinosaur Egg

View of the summit of the Southern Dinsosaur Egg from the Northern Dinosaur Egg. It is signficantly shorter. A route called Hatch (5.5) goes up the east face (facing left in this photo).

Rappelling from the Northern
Dinosaur Egg

Rappelling from the Northern Dinosaur Egg

Dominic on the second rappel from the Northern Dinsosaur Egg. A bunch of slings around a huge chockstone provided a good anchor.

View of Boulder from the Northern Dinosaur Egg

View of Boulder

View of Boulder (NCAR on left) from the top of the second rappel. Slings (barely visible on the right) adorn the chockstone on top.

Crack in the Southern Dinosaur Egg

Hatch

Dominic belaying me from the deep crack in the east face of the Southern Dinosaur Egg.  This route is called Hatch (5.5) and its very similar in character to Rehatch on the Northern Dinosaur Egg. We both thought this one was slightly better even though it was shorter.

Canyoneering flavor in the crack on the Southern Dinosaur Egg

More like canyoneering

Near the top of the crack the climbing takes on a canyoneering flavor. Some serious squeezing and stemming is required.

Southern Dinosaur Egg summit

Southern Dinosaur Egg summit

After climbing the incredibly fun, vertcial 40 foot crux wall of 5.5 rock we reached the spacious summit.

View east from the Southern Dinosaur Egg

View east

View east from the summit of the Southern Dinosaur Egg. NCAR is just left of center. The obvious rock formation in the foreground is known as the Bear Creek Spire.




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