An ultra classic snow/ice/mixed climb in a stunning setting
The steep, complex east face of Longs Peak as seen from the trail to Chasm Lake before sunrise. The Notch Couloir is particularly attention grabbing. It is the steep couloir below the huge notch just right of center. To access it, the long, thin, snowy ledge on the left known as Broadway must be traversed! The Loft route is visible on the far left. Dreamweaver is out of view further left.
Mount Meeker's dramatic North Face including Dreamweaver as seen on the approach. Dreamweaver is the often thin ribbon of snow near the center.
Dominic nearing Mount Meeker's North Face and the base of Dreamweaver. The sweeping rib of rock on the right is known as the Flying Buttress. Dreamweaver ascends the snow on its left side.
Adam starting up Dreamweaver on moderate snow slopes. Incredible views of the Flying Buttress make a great welcome.
Soon the couloir narrows dramatically and some rocks poke through the steep snow.
Dominic starting up the rather tight couloir.
Adam nearing the first crux we encountered on the route. A solo climber can be seen ahead of him, pausing to warm up his frozen hands. There was a chilly wind blowing at times.
Reports from a week ago indicated it hadn't been getting cold enough for ice to form on the route. We expected a mixed rock and snow climb, but lo and behold we found ice! I wasn't quite sure how I felt about that yet, but Adam had some experience on ice and was happy to lead.
Adam near the top of the first crux after placing a single cam. Ice screws were never necessary because the rock offered sufficient protection opportunities. For the most part the ice here was good and took pick placements very well. Swinging my tool and feeling it stick felt nice. Hmmm... maybe I actually like ice?
Dominic clealy likes the ice too. Here he's finishing up the first crux while being belayed by Adam. Adam used two ice tools on the climb while Dominic and I had one tool and one mountaineering axe each. Two tools would have been fun and a bit more comfortable, but the mountaineering axe got the job done.
The Flying Buttress as seen from the notch about halfway up the route.
Adam starting up the second half of the climb above the notch. Nice, steep snow.
Dominic gazes at the route ahead while the Flying Buttress soars behind him.
The couloir constricts again, this time more dramatically. In some places its only a few feet wide. From below we have already seen that it is holding a fair amount of ice.
Adam checking with Dominic and I to see if we'll be comfortable soloing the easy ice ahead. Um...I think so...gulp.
Dominic climbing up an icy, narrow part of the couloir. This part was awesome! It pushed my limits, but not unreasonably so.
Adam continuing up the couloir on more steep snow.
Adam negotiating yet another icy step. By now I'm really liking this.
We found another mixed rock/ice crux at the top of the couloir and decided to protect it. Adam just climbed it on belay without placing any protection and then belayed Dominic and I up.
Dominic grinning from ear to ear as he tops out after the second crux. The difficulties are over, darn!
Its in very high spirits that we climb the remaining easier terrain to the summit of Mount Meeker.
Dominic nearing the summit of Mount Meeker with Longs Peak in the background.
Dominic and Adam finishing up the ascent with some easy, snowy scrambling.
The Loft and Longs Peak as seen from the summit of Mount Meeker. We could see several climbers on the Homestretch.
Adam traversing the interesting ridge between Mount Meeker and the highpoint of Meeker Ridge.
Adam negotiating some snowy ledges below the ridge crest.
This marmot was hanging out in the rocks at the highpoint of Meeker Ridge.
Mount Meeker's East Ridge as seen on the descent to the Iron Gates.
Longs Peak, Mount Lady Washington (right) and Chasm Lake as seen from the vicinty of Mount Meeker's Iron Gates.