Torreys Peak via Emperor Couloir & Grays Peak

June 4, 2010

A very long, mellow snow climb with two steep sections 

Torreys Peak

Torreys Peak as seen from Grizzly Gulch. The Emperor Couloir is the large strip of snow on the right. It ascends the north side of Torreys Peak and  is one of the longest couloir climbs in Colorado.

Grizzly Peak

Beautiful early morning light on Grizzly Peak. The narrow couloir on the left is begging to be climbed.

Emperor Couloir

The Emperor Couloir as seen from the Grizzly Gulch Trail.  The average slope isn't much more than 30 degrees but there at two steep sections, one near the bottom and another at the top. On this day we found 2500 feet of continuous snow.

Stating up the snow

Kevin starts up the low angle snow at the bottom of the Emperor.

Getting steep

We exchange one trekking pole for an ice axe as the slope steepens a bit.

Options

Higher up there are multiple possibile lines. The one we chose topped out at about 13,850 feet on Kelso Ridge just above the knife edge.

The top

It was clear my recently broken toe was going to survive the climb so I relieved Kevin up front for the last 500 feet or so. I chose the steepest exit (just left of the cornice) which Kevin measured at 52 degrees.

Looking down Emperor

Looking down the Emperor Couloir from near the top.

Steep enough to warrant a self belay

The top of the couloir was steep and warranted some axe work.

Topping out

Kevin tops out next to the cornice. The slope exceeded 50 degrees here.

Grays Peak

View south to Grays Peak from the summit of Torreys Peak. No trip up one ever feels complete without paying a visit to the other.

Torreys Peak on the descent

Torreys Peak as seen during the descent. We saw and heard a large wet slide around noon.

The hike out

The hike out was fast and easy with some good glissading.

Dead Dog Couloir

The famous Dead Dog Couloir on Torreys Peak.




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