The Fist & Schmoe's Nose

June 27, 2009

Two obscure Flatiron climbs (5.5 - 5.6)

Fifth Flatiron

Fifth Flatiron

The pointy top of the 5th Flatiron as seen from the southwest. We used the climbers trail that goes from the Royal Arch up past the south side of the 5th Flatiron to access The Fist. 

The Fist's East Face

The Fist's East Face

Dominic leading up the east face of The Fist on typical Flatiron terrain - easy 5th class but quite runout. The overhang above him is the crux of the route.

Dominic on The Fist's crux

Dominic on The Fist's crux

Dominic tackling the fun 5.5 crux. A nice arm-width crack runs up through the overhang.

Kevin above the crux on The Fist

Kevin above the crux

Kevin climbing above the crux toward the summit of The Fist.

Top of last pitch on The Fist

Top of last pitch

Kevin finishing up the final pitch. From here the summit is a 30 second scramble away. On this ledge we were happy to find a rappel anchor made from 20 - 30 feet of new webbing and two rappel rings. If I did this climb again I'd bring along a lot of webbing in case older webbing needs to be backed up. Other eascape options involve some amount of 5th class downclimbing.

Scrambling up Schmoe's Nose

Scrambling up Schmoe's Nose

After rappelling down the north side of The Fist we bushwhacked over to the base of Schmoe's Nose and began scrambling up the east face.

Schmoe's Nose

Schmoe's Nose

The first roped pitch on the east face of Schmoe's Nose. From this angle we're looking up at the nose from underneath. The left and right nostrils are obvious. We headed from the one on the right.

Dominic in the north nostril of Schmoe's Nose

Dominic in the north nostril

Dominic setting up a belay in the north nostril. With our 50 meter rope he wasn't quite able to reach the huge belay ledge just above it.  There were good gear placements in the nostril but it was a hanging belay.

ominic contemplating the booger crux

Protecting the booger crux

Dominic investigating protection opportunities in the boogers, several large boulders that are wedged into the nostril.

Booger crux

Booger crux

Dominic attempting the booger crux which requires pulling up over an overhanging booger and squeezing through a narrow slot.  Roach gives this a 5.6 rating but it is one of the most awkward moves I've ever made.

Dominic on the booger crux

A less than graceful finish

Dominic's first attempt failed when he realized there was no way through the slot with his pack on. His second attempt failed when he realized his camera and all of the gear was also too much of a hindrance. He found success on his third attempt. Notice that he has ended up on his back with his feet in the air! This whole ordeal was extremely comical, especially since there was no chance of any harm coming to him.

The Fist, Bear Peak &
South Boulder Peak

The Fist, Bear Peak & South Boulder Peak

The Fist, Bear Peak and South Boulder Peak from high on Schmoe's Nose.

Kevin finishing up Schmoe's Nose

Kevin finishing up Schmoe's Nose

Dominic belays Kevin from the top of Schmoe's Nose. 

Rappel from Schmoe's Nose

Rappel from Schmoe's Nose

Kevin rappelling from Schmoe's Nose.




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