A morning's worth of interesting climbs (5.4 - 5.8) in the Garden of the Gods
Karen starting up her first rock climb in Garden of the Gods, the South Ridge of Pigeon Rock. We found out afterwards that this one gets a 5.4X bomb rating on Mountain Project ( it was only 5.4R in the book we had along) and the rock is described as some of the worst in the area! We definately agree and if we'd seen this information beforehand we may have skipped this one. The peakbagger in me is glad we did it though.
Karen making her way up the choss heap that is Pigeon Rock. Bits of rock sometimes flaked off as we climbed.
Karen closing in on the summit of Pigeon Rock. Near the top we had to be careful to stay on this side of the fin as there was no pro or anchor between us and the belayer on the other side!
Kevin finally getting his turn on Pigeon Rock after Dominic was forced to make two more trips to the top to free stuck ropes. This thing was a royal pain to climb! It cannot be recommended unless you are a deranged peakbagger like Kevin and I.
Kevin wrapping things up on Pigeon Rock. After he came down I tried to pull the rope but only succeeded in getting it stuck for a third time. I yanked hard in an attempt to free it and a large rock near the top that we'd noticed was very loose came flying down and landed about two feet from me. Very scary! Be careful if you feel the need to climb this puppy.
Kevin being lowered off Pigeon Rock by Dominic who is on the opposite side. Unlike most of the other formations in the garden, this one had no fixed protection at the top to rappel from. There was no way to build a good anchor up there so we lowered each other simply by draping the rope over the top of the rock. Not ideal, but it worked.
Dominic starting up Red Twin Spire, one of a pair of cool pinnacles in the middle of the park. The climb actually starts on a sidewalk and there is often quite an audience.
Dominic leading a very fun route on Red Twin Spire called Potholes (5.7). Holds are generally good but the rock is nice and steep! Old pins offer fixed protection but they are looking a little questionable these days. This is the easiest route to the top.
Dominic climbing the upper portion of Potholes on Red Twin Spire. North Gateway Rock is on the left and the top of White Twin Spire can be seen on the right.
Kevin starting up Potholes on Red Twin Spire. Its pretty obvious how the route got its name.
Kevin about halfway up Potholes with South Gateway Rock in the background.
Me toproping Incline Ledge (5.8), another route on Red Twin Spire, while we wait for a party to finish White Twin Spire, our next objective. Photo courtesy of Dominic, our fearless leader.
Another shot of me climbing Incline Ledge on Red Twin Spire. I really like the clouds in this picture. Thanks Dominic!
Kevin starting up White Twin Spire with a belay from Karen. The South Ridge (5.6) is a lot of fun. Like Red Twin Spire, there are bolts and chains on the summit for rigging a toprope.
Kevin climbing the narrow south ridge of White Twin Spire, the easiest route to the top. South Gateway Rock is in the background.
Kevin nearing the small summit of White Twin Spire. Red Twin Spire can be seen on the right. Notice the difference in coloring. The West Face route (5.8) goes up the face shown in this picture. Protection is sparse but its good for toproping. I wanted to give it a try but we ran out of time.
The narrow fin known as Pigeon Rock as seen from the north. Our route went up the opposite side.