Mount Hope via Hopeful Couloir & Quail Mountain

June 6, 2009

A pleasant, scenic snow climb

Dominic & Kevin at Hope Pass

Hope Pass

Dominic and Kevin at Hope Pass before sunrise. To approach the Hopeful Couloir from Sheep Gulch one must go up and over the pass, dropping several hundred feet down into the basin at the head of Little Willis Gulch.

Hopeful Couloir

Hopeful Couloir

Mount Hope's northeast face catching the first rays of sunshine. The left angling couloir that tops out to the left of the summit is the Hopeful Couloir, a moderate and aesthetic snow climb.

Little Willis Basin

Little Willis Basin

View down Little Willis Gulch from the basin at its head. Apparently the camping here is very nice, making a longer approach from the north worthwhile. Dave, Hoot, Matt, Shep & Kiefer chose this option and met Kevin, Dominic & I in the morning for the climb.

Spindrift below Hope's northeast face

Spindrift

Dominic and Kevin making their way toward the base of the Hopeful Couloir while being pestered by spindrift. In June?

Huge boulder that broke loose

Recent change

It was clear that this huge piece of rock recently broke loose from above and slid down the couloir, causing a small avalanche en route. The Hopeful Couloir is the line immediately left of center.

Starting up the couloir

Starting up the couloir

Kevin and Dominic slowly starting up the couloir as we wait for Dave and Hoot.

Dave Hale in the Hopeful Couloir

Dave

Dave at the beginning of the climb, happy to have found good conditions after a failed attempt last year.

Hopeful Couloir

Enjoying the climb 

Conditions were good and the views fantastic!

Hopeful Couloir

Axe plunging

Hoot doing some nice axe plunging.

Hopeful Couloir

Halfway up

Dave, Dominic and Kevin about halfway up the couloir.

Little Willis Gulch and Twin
Lakes

Little Willis Gulch and Twin Lakes

View down the couloir and Little Willis Gulch from near the top. The two lakes in the upper left are Twin Lakes.

Hope Couloir

The top

Hoot leading the way up the steepest part of the couloir toward the direct exit. A cornice often threatens this finish but today it wasn't very threatening. The snow angle maxed out at about 47 degrees. 

Topping out of Hopeful Couloir

Banshees

The banshees attack Kevin as he tops out onto Mount Hope's east ridge just a short distance from the summit. These were the strongest winds I've encountered so far in June.

Mount Oxford and Mount Belford

Mount Oxford & Mount Belford

Dave and Kevin chat on Hope's east ridge in front of a beautiful backdrop including Mount Oxford and Mount Belford.

Descending Mount Hope's east ridge

Descending the east ridge

Kevin, Matt, Shep & Kiefer beginning the descent of Mount Hope's east ridge.

Mount Hope's east ridge

Dominic on the east ridge

Dominic on the descent of Mount Hope's east ridge.

Quail Mountain

Quail Mountain

Quail Mountain, the next objective for Kevin, Dominic & I.




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