Little Bear Peak

February 28, 2009

Link to my Trip Report

A challenging winter ascent of one of Colorado's most infamous 14ers

Ellingwood Point

Ellingwood Point

The early morning sun kisses Ellingwood Point. We climbed it earlier this month.

Mighty Little Bear Peak

Mighty Little Bear Peak

Dwight crossing frozen Lake Como toward Little Bear's dramatic NW Face.

Little Bear's NW Face

Little Bear's NW Face

Little Bear's NW Face as seen from its base.  The famous black hand watermark that marks the start of the route is visible left of and slightly below center.

Climbing the hand headwall

Climbing the hand headwall

Dwight climbing the hand headwall, the 4th class headwall next to the black hand. It was a little spicy with snow but we felt more comfortable without crampons.

Belay above the hand

Belay above the hand

Dominic belaying Dwight as he finishes up the steep hand headwall pitch.

Low on the NW Face

Low on the NW Face

Dominic climbing low on Little Bear's NW Face.

Easier terrain on Little Bear's NW Face

Easier terrain

The middle section of the face is less steep and provided a bit of a mental break.

Simulclimbing on Little Bear's NW Face

Simulclimbing

We simulclimbed the easier sections.

Deep snow on Little Bear's NW Face

Climbing in the shadow

Climbing in Little Bear's shadow. This northwest facing route gets no sun, making it a very cold undertaking even on a reasonably nice winter day.  We'd hoped that the snow would allow rapid upward progress but it was poorly consolidated and only sapped our strength. Travel on rock was more efficient.

Dominic gets a break on Little Bear's NW Face

Dominic gets a break

Dominic was beginning to tire so Dwight provided some relief on the sharp end. Here Dominic is fighting through a very cold break while belaying Dwight. Did I mention it was freezing? A high level of suffering was the price we paid for glory on this day. It was SO worth it though.

Steep 4th class terrain on Little Bear's NW Face

Steep 4th class terrain

The NW Face culminates in several hundred feet of steep 4th class climbing and we set up proper belays for all of it. This picture is very deceptive - from below the snow on top of all the ledges can't be seen. Here Dwight is leading one of the pitches.

Ellingwood Point & Blanca
Peak from Little Bear Peak

Ellingwood Point & Blanca Peak

Ellingwood Point (left) and Blanca Peak (right) as seen from near the summit of Little Bear Peak. The connecting ridge between Little Bear and Blanca is a classic scramble, one of the best Colorado has to offer... not today though.

Final steps to Little Bear's summit

Final steps

Dwight belays Dominic as he finishes up Little Bear's exposed northeast ridge. Twin Peaks is just left of center and the Crestones Group can be seen in the distance behind the sand dunes on the right. 

Starting the descent from Little Bear Peak

Starting the descent

Beginning the descent down the south side of Little Bear Peak. 

Top of Little Bear's standard route

Snowy, loose mess

The terrain directly under the summit was a snowy, loose mess and we had to take care not to know rocks down on each other.

Little Bear's infamous Hourglass Couloir

The Infamous Hourglass Couloir

Starting down the infamous Hourglass Couloir. This standard route to the summit of Little Bear Peak has proven to be very dangerous over the years. Loose rock from above is funnelled into the narrow couloir and has claimed lives. Here Dwight is descending the less than ideal snow while on belay from above.

Rappelling the Hourglass Couloir

Hourglass rappel

Its hard to miss the anchor part way down the Hourglass, a mess of colorful ropes, slings, and cordalette. Ice often forms here.

Sunset on Little Bear Peak

Sunset

Dominic traversing towards Little Bear's west ridge at sunset. It ain't over yet.




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