Lizard Head

July 12, 2009

Colorado's most difficult thirteener and the kickoff of our honeymoon

Cross Mountain Trail

Cross Mountain Trail

The shortest approach for Lizard Head is via the Cross Mountain Trail which begins slighly south of Lizard Head Pass.

Lizard Head

Lizard Head

Lizard Head is a pinnacle that was formed when magma solidified in the vent of a volcano. The sides of the volcano subsequently eroded, exposing the volcanic spire. It is Colorado's most technically difficult thirteener.

Base of the technical climb on Lizard Head

Base of the technical climb

The first pitch of the standard southwest chimney route follows a prominent crack. Hermann, Dominic and Dwight are scoping it out. A blue sling can be seen near the top of the photo at the intermediate belay station we did not use.

Climbers on Lizard Head

Happy climbers

Dwight and Dominic happy to be finally meeting the big lizard.

Climbing Lizard Head

Hermann starting up

Hermann cautiously starting up the first pitch on 5.6 terrain, carefully evaluating the rock as he ascends.

Climbing Lizard Head

Joyous cam placement

Hermann is psyched that the first gear he places is the massive #4 cam he hauled up.

First pitch of Lizard Head

First pitch

Hermann partway up the first pitch. Although it isn't considered the crux of the climb by most, we all agreed it felt like the toughest part of the ascent.

First pitch of Lizard Head

Top of first pitch

Hermann leading off from the intermediate belay ledge on the first pitch. He just clipped the pitons there and continued up since the notch above can easily be reached with a 60 meter rope. The upper portion of the first pitch increases in difficulty (5.8).

First pitch of Lizard Head

Hermann belays Dwight from notch

Hermann watches from the notch as Dwight tackles the top of the first pitch.

Second pitch of Lizard Head

Dwight on second pitch

The second pitch is a simple but loose scramble. We remained roped up for convenience and gave each other hip belays from above.

Above notch on Lizard Head

Dominic above the notch

Dominic standing above the notch, preparing to scramble to the base of the final pitch.

Climbing Lizard Head

Where's the route?

Hermann searching for the final technical pitch. Ironically, it can be seen above and behind him. At first it looked intimidating but it ended up being fairly easy.

Last pitch on Lizard Head

Last pitch

Hermann leading up the crux pitch with a belay from Dominic.

Climbing Lizard Hell

Protecting the crux

Hermann ready to place his #4 cam once again, this time to protect the crux moves.

Climbing Lizard Head

Dominic on final pitch

Hermann belays Dominic up the final pitch.

Lizard Head summit ridge

Summit ridge

Dominic traversing the loose, exposed, fractured summit ridge.

Climbing Lizard Head

Dwight on final pitch

Dwight joins us atop Lizard Head's technical difficulties.

Lizard Head summit

Highly sought after summit

Its clear that this ain't no ordinary summit. 

Lizard Head summit

Hermann scrambling to summit

Hermann finally gets to reap the rewards of all his hard work.

Lizard Head summit

Surprise champagne

Hermann shocked us all by producing a small bottle of champagne on the summit! What a guy! Apparently Dominic thinks that since we're married now its appropriate to put his hand on my butt for pictures.

Lizard Head summit

Celebration

Dominic recovers from his encounter with the fizzy beverage while I take my turn.

Lizard Head summit

Summit antics

Dwight makes a movie of himself drinking the champagne. I guess Hermann is eagerly waiting to grab the bottle from him.

Wilson Peak Group

Wilson Group

View of the Wilson Group from the summit of Lizard Head. Left to right: El Diente, Mount Wilson, Gladstone Peak and Wilson Peak.

Rappelling Lizard Head

First rappel

Hermann starting the first rappel.

Rappelling Lizard Head

Rappelling the intermediate scramble

With two 60 meter ropes we were able to rappel past the scrambling section between the two technical pitches.




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