The Maiden

May 17, 2008

A very funky and spicy 5.6 climb up an amazing pinnacle followed by a huge free-rappel from the summit

Approaching The Maiden

Approaching The Maiden

The Maiden is the salient pinnacle on the left. From this angle it kind of resembles a dolphin. The easiest route up it (and the one we climbed) starts on the left side and traverses around to the back side before gaining the summit. 

The Maiden

Bunny rabbit?

The Maiden looks like a bunny rabbit when viewed from the west.  The notch on the left is known as the Crow's Nest and is the endpoint of the classic free-rappel from the summit. 

Base of the climb

Start of the climb

The first pitch of the climb is a low angle 5.3R slab (facing to the left in this picture). Hermann is standing at the base. The second pitch begins at the apex and is all downclimbing. 

Starting 2nd pitch

Alien?

Hermann starting out on the second pitch.  From here The Maiden has an alien quality. The downclimbing nature of this pitch means that Hermann now has a tight rope and Dominic and I must rely on the protection he places for us.

Downclimb on 2nd pitch

Downclimb on 2nd pitch

Dominic on the second pitch, a long 5.0 downclimb.  Hermann is belaying him from the Crow's Nest.

Hermann in the Crow's Nest

Crow's Nest

Hermann belaying from a bolt anchor in the Crow's Nest.

Crux pitch

Crux pitch

The crux pitch traverses this face and is incredibly exposed. We accidentally took the 5.7 variations and it took me forever to commit to the short series of moves.  I almost gave up.  It was spicy!  Double sided belays aren't uncommon here.

Final pitch

Final Pitch

Hermann seems very pleased with what he sees at the base of the summit pitch.  After all of the traversing and downclimbing we've done its a relief to finally climb UP some easy slabs.

Famous Free-rappel

Famous free-rappel

Dominic on the famous 115 foot free-rappel down the West Ovrehang.

Rappelling

Floating

Dominic preparing to land in the Crow's Nest.




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