A long, exciting, moderate alpine climb of one of Colorado's most famous 14ers
From Chasm Lake the first order of business is a 700 foot snow climb of Lambs Slide which reportedly averages about 42 degrees. This picture shows Adam and another pair of climbers at the top of Lambs Slide heading for Broadway which is just around the corner.
A climber starting across the first part of Broadway. The snow was a bit wet and unsupportive. We used a combination of rock pro and pickets to protect the exposed traverse
Dominic begins leading across Broadway. We traveled in two teams of two: Adam and I on the first rope and Dominic and Jamie on the second rope.
Adam leading us across Boradway. With several groups on the route traffic was an issue. We did a mix of simulclimbing and belayed climbing here.
High and low traverse options at the beginning of Broadway. Dominic is making his way across the lower one. The higher one may protect a bit better with rock gear under the current conditions.
The infamous Broadway crux bulge (5.2) is in the foreground. I found the short, snowy downclimb from where the climbers are to the crux to be harder (more mentally challenging) than the actual steparound. I took advantage of having some friendly climbers on our tail and downclimbed past a cam Adam had placed before unclipping from it. The climbers kindly cleaned it for me. Thanks guys!
A grassy section near the end of Broadway. Crampons and muddy grass go well together.
Looking back at the Broadway crux from near the end of Broadway. The exposure is intense.
A pair of climbers negotiating the Broadway crux.
Broadway delivered us to the bottom of the Notch Couloir. The runout for this couloir is about as bad as it gets!
Adam leading up the Notch Couloir. The terrain is easy but due to the creepiness of what lies below and the dire consequences of an unarrested fall most parties rope up for it.
Looking down the Notch Couloir at Chasm Lake far, far below.
Simulclimbing worked very well for us in the couloir. Pickets were useful, especially in the lower part. The walls of the upper section took rock pro well.
Looking down the narrow couloir at a climber below.
Climber nearing the top of the couloir. This part is sometimes a mixed climb, but we found the crux to be snow and a bit of ice - no exposed rock yet.
Adam happy to finally be in the Notch.
Dominic (right) and another climber belaying their seconds up into the Notch.
Jamie climbing up the last part of the couloir.
Three groups of climbers (Dominic on the left, Adam on the right, a third party in the chimney above) tackle 5.3ish rock above the Notch.
Dominic setting some protection on the slabby traverse from the Notch to the chimney. It was nontrivial in wet mountaineering boots.
Adam leading up the chimney that provides access to the summit ridge. Another party of two can be seen above. Snow, ice, and water complicated matters.
Adam and another climber on the final easy ridge. This picture was taken from very close to the summit.
Dominic, Adam and Jamie pose for a victory shot before our hasty departure. The weather has been building quickly and its only a matter of time before all hell breaks loose.
Dominic and Adam starting down the North Face.
Traversing above the Diamond toward the highest eye bolt on the North Face. We were getting tired at this point and extra care had to be taken to not slip and sail over the void. Storm Peak can be seen in the background.
The North Face was holding a surprising amount of snow still, more than during our winter ascent in March 2008. This actually made it easier to negotiate as a lot of the rock was burried under snow. Although this was my third descent of this route, it was the first time I used two ropes for the rappel. This avoids the need to locate the lower bolt and set up a second rappel - a good thing since the other bolt was totally buried under the snow somewhere.
Adam rappelling down the North Face.
Jamie rappelling as some weather rolls through (thankfully no electricity yet).