O'Neill Butte on the approach
O'Neill Butte as seen from below the south rim on the popular South Kaibab Trail. The trail passes very close to the base of the butte making the approach short and easy.
A memorable half day hike/scramble/climb with a lot of character
O'Neill Butte as seen from below the south rim on the popular South Kaibab Trail. The trail passes very close to the base of the butte making the approach short and easy.
To reach the base of O'Neill Butte its necessary to descend 1500 feet from the south rim. Unfortunately the brunt of the work comes at the end of the hike when one must regain all that elevation to climb back out.
Vertical cliffs on O'Neill Butte's east side encourage scramblers to look elsewhere for a reasonable line.
The route we followed to the summit relied on several weaknesses on the north/northwest side of the butte and was pieced together by CP & DB on a previous visit. The difficulties begin with a short 4th or low 5th class slabby ramp featuring a good hand crack on the right side and little on the left side. DB and I gladly accepted a handline here.
After scrambling up the ramp we walked west along a wide ledge on the north face to reach the next weakness. In this photo the boys are standing at the base of it.
Harlan forces his way up a short but tricky dihedral that felt well into the 5th class realm to me. Hard to rate with boots on, but this seemed like at least 5.5; it was difficult getting off the ground and also difficult exiting at the top. My comrades who tend to consider my class 4 = their class 3 and my class 3 = their class 2 all agreed this was 5th class and not exactly easy.DB and I welcomed a belay; the other psychos climbed it unroped. Climbing-wise it was the crux of the route, pucker-wise it was not.
Once DB neared the top of the dihedral Harlan grabbed her and hoisted her up to the belay station to eliminate the need for the tricky exit moves. What a team player that Harlan is! Can you guess where we're going next? The rest of us were in disbelief when CP told us we were going up the squeeze chimneybehind Harlan's head... what chimney? Could anyone but a child even fit through the entrance???
Harlan on his first attempt to enter the squeeze chimney... of course its no easy task trying to force your way up such a narrow slot you can barely fit through, especially when there are no foodholds to be found and you're standing over the exposure of the dihedral you just climbed up. Very funky to say the least; I have no idea how to rate it! CP led and had us all in stitches as he made upward progress but his pants did not... as if the squeeze isn't awkward enough! Harlan had to rest a bit after his initial attempts but made it during round two with a critical knee boost from Andy. I found quick success with a human foothold. Large climbers will definately not fit through this chimney and climbing around the it would be quite difficult (yet possible for good climbers).
Looking down at Harlan as he finally manages to force his way into the squeeze chimney. Once you're in all that remains is a bit of strenuous stemming.
At the top of the squeeze chimney we climbed into a several foot wide slot, up and over some chockstones, and then stemmed up the walls of the slot to gain some ledges 20 feet or so above the floor.
DB on the psychological crux of the route, a HIGHLY exposed, very awkward corner that must be turned from the ledges above the slot. Even with a belay it is freaky. DB had done this before and figured out a wierd but effective technique: schooching on your back! I found that it actually worked very well; perhaps the biggest plus to this method is that you don't have to look DOWN! The pothole makes a great handhold but it can't be reached as early as you'd like.
Andy calmly demonstrates a more civilized approach.
The South Kaibab Trail leads up Cedar Ridge to Yaki Point on the south rim; it provides easy access to O'Neill Butte. This view is from the summit of O'Neill Butte.
View east from the summit of O'Neill Butte. Pattie Butte is just left of and above center. Larger Newton Butte is to its right.
Andy models for photos on a picturesque overhang on O'Neill Butte.
DB schooching her way back along the tricky traverse.
Big exposure on the awkward traverse. Luckily it seemed a lot easier on the way down, partly because some great handholds are obvious and very convenient when going in this direction.
CP prepares to descend the squeeze chimney. Its infinitely easier in this direction since gravity is on your side.