Sayres Benchmark via X Rated, UN 13,460 & UN 12,601

June 13, 2009

A surprsingly aesthetic, steep snow climb with a long approach followed by a ridge run over two more summits

North face of Sayres Benchmark

North face of Sayres Benchmark

The north face of Sayres Benchmark as seen on the approach up La Plata Gulch. The wide couloir that tops out to the right of the summit is known as the Grand Central Couloir, a moderate snow climb popular with skiers. X Rated, the route we climbed, begins directly below the summit and climbs straight up through a narrow constriction. It gets its name from an X pattern near the top.

Moon over Sayres Benchmark

Moon over Sayres Benchmark

Dominic and Kevin climb toward the entrance to the couloir as the moon sets over Sayres Benchmark.

Sayres Benchmark X Rated apron

Apron

Kevin leading up the apron of the couloir shortly after we stopped to gear up.

Interesting lower portion of X Rated

Interesting lower portion

In the lower part of the couloir we found ourselves between impressive, high walls of rock.

X Rated, approaching the rocky section

Approaching the rocky section

Dominic leading us up toward a slightly rocky section.

Steep, hard snow and exposed rock in X Rated

Steep, hard snow and exposed rock

The snow around the emerging rocks was very hard and a little icy.  It added some spice to the climb.

Kevin climbing the cruxy section

Kevin climbing the cruxy section

Kevin carefully making his way up the first of two hard, rocky sections.

High on the north face of Sayres Benchmark

High on the north face

High on the face the couloir opens up. There was some recent snow up here and breaking trail was quite tiring.

Nearing the top of Sayres Benchmark

Nearing the top

More steep snow delivered us directly to the summit! We were all pleasantly surprised at how great of a line this ended up being!  The slope angle ranged from the low 40's down low to the high 40's in the middle and upper portions.

Looking down the north face of Sayres Benchmark

Looking down the face

Looking down the route from the top.

Descending Sayres Benchmark

Descending Sayres Benchmark

Kevin descending the west ridge of Sayres Benchmark. The wind on the summit was nasty so after topping out we pushed on toward UN 13,460 in search of a more pleasant break spot.

UN 13,460

UN 13,460

Approaching the summit of UN 13,460. The short scramble was fun, but Kevin pulled loose a huge boulder that nearly took him out.

Sayres Benchmark

Sayres Benchmark

Looking back at the north face of Sayres Benchmark from near the summit of UN 13,460.

UN 12,601

UN 12,601

Heading for UN 12,601, our final summit of the day. This was my second visit to this little 12er.




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