Shoshoni Peak's Westmost SW Couloir

June 14, 2009

Link to my Trip Report

An obscure, challenging, steep snow climb with a short 5th class rock crux

Lake Isabelle snowbanks

Lake Isabelle snowbanks

Steep snowbanks of bulletproof snow made travel past Lake Isabelle a bit tricky in places.

Sunrise in South Saint Vrain drainage

Sunrise

The sun light up the peaks encircling the basin at he head of the South Saint Vrain drainage during the approach. Shoshoni is the peak on the right.

Shoshoni's westmost SW couloir

Shoshoni's westmost SW couloir

There are three couloirs on the southwest face, each of varying difficulty. The westernmost couloir is the steepest and contains a short 5th class rock crux.

Approaching the couloir

Approaching the couloir

Climbing moderate but very hard snow slopes to the base of the couloir..

Starting up the couloir

Off we go

The climb begins in earnest near the base of the couloir. Kevin decides to do his part of the leading early on. 

Looking up at the crux

Looking up at the crux

Looking up at the start of the crux in the lower part of the couloir. Reports indicate that once it begins to melt out it can be very difficult to overcome. Luckily, there is a 5.2ish workaround on the rock on the right side.

Approaching the crux

Approaching the crux

Dominic leads the group up to a suitable anchor spot near the base of the crux.

Dominic investigting the crux

Dominic investigting the crux

Dominic leading up to the base of the crux. The snow at the beginning was near vertical and of poor consistency. Dominic said his pick placements didn't feel secure. There was absolutely no protection and he didn't feel comfortable committing. He decided to back off and tackle the 5.2ish rock pitch out of sight to the right instead.

Navajo & Apache Peaks

Navajo & Apache Peaks

Navajo Peak (cone on left) and Apache Peak (right), two fantastic 13ers. Classic snow climbs abound here. The snowfield to the right of Navajo Peak is the Navajo Snowfield and it holds snow (or ice) year round. The wide couloir on the left side of Apache Peak is known as Queensway.

Rock crux

Rock crux

Heather following the short crux pitch on the right side of the couloir. The climbing wasn't too tough but it was exposed and we were happy to be roped up.

Above the crux

Above the crux

The belay station at the top of the crux was very small and it was clear that it would be uncomfortably crowded with all four of us. It was already tight with three of us. After I climbed the pitch, I untied and continued up the steep couloir. Heather followed me up as the boys finished up the technical pitch. It was spooky because of the drop off directly below me and the snow quickly became very hard. Upward progress was slow and labor intensive. 

Steep and narrow couloir

Steep and narrow

The couloir was steep and narrow, a winning combination.

Heather discovering steep snow

Heather discovering steep snow

Heather, an avid ice climber, discovering that steep snow ain't too shabby either.

Kevin planting his axe

Kevin planting his axe

The hard snow usually accepted the shaft of an ice axe after a few blows. Most of the time we self belayed with our mountaineering axes and used the picks of our tools for added security.

Nearing the top of the couloir

Nearing the top

Looking back at Kevin and Dominic near the top of the couloir. Unlike many couloirs, this one seemed to relent a bit near the top instead of getting steeper.

More steep snow in the couloir

More steep snow

More steep snow climbing. The couloir felt steeper than 50 degrees the whole way.

Topping out of the couloir

Topping out

Heather about to top out on her first steep snow climb, and it was a doozie!

Steep snow above couloir

Steep snow above couloir

After topping out of the couloir proper, we still had to climb a steep snow slope to reach the plateau above. In stark contrast to the snow in the couloir, this snow was very soft and wet, making it a bit unsecure.

Shoshoni summit

Summit

Dominic, Kevin and Heather finishing up the scramble to the summit of Shoshoni Peak.

Navajo & Apache Peaks
from Shoshoni

Navajo & Apache Peaks from Shoshoni

Navajo Peak and Apache Peak look awesome from the summit of Shoshoni Peak.

Team on Shoshoni

Summit shot

Heather, Kevin and Dominic pose for a summit shot.

Crossing Lake Isabelle

Crossing Lake Isabelle

Walking over Lake Isabelle didn't seem like a great idea, but everyone else was doing it! Instead of messing with the vertical snowbanks along the shore again we decided to follow.




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