Mount Sneffels via the Snake Couloir

May 27, 2007

A classic, steep snow climb up one of Colorado's finest 14ers

Petroglyphs

Mount Sneffels' North Face

The north face of Mount Sneffels as seen from Blaine Basin at sunrise. The Snake Couloir is on the right side.

The East Temple

Starting up the couloir

Dominic starting up the couloir. This was his first snow climb!

Twin Brothers

At the dogleg

Dominic gazing ahead at the upper portion of the couloir from the dogleg.

Spry Canyon Pothole

Top half

Two climbers high in the top half of the Snake Couloir.

Spry Canyon

Traversing at the dogleg

Traversing steep snow above the dogleg to access the upper half of the couloir.

Spry Canyon

Me in the Snake

Me in the upper part of the Snake.

Spry Canyon

Approaching the crux

After climbing the couloir a short, rocky crux provides direct access to the summit of Mount Sneffels. This pitch is 4th class when dry but snow spices it up and depending on conditions some parties rope up for it. Skiers always seem to rappel it. Two climbers can be seen starting up the pitch.

Spry Canyon

Summit pitch

The pair of climbers offered to leave their pro in for us and we gladly accepted. Dominic did a "sport lead" and I cleaned the gear. Being extreme newbies to this kind of stuff we appreciated the help, especially with questionable weather rolling in.

Spry Canyon

Belaying from the summit

Dominic belaying me from the summit of Mount Sneffels.

Spry Canyon

Wilson Group & Dallas Peak

The views from the summit were grand. Dallas Peak is beautiful in its white cloak. The Wilson 14er group can be seen in the background.

Spry Canyon

Preparing for the descent

Dominic finishes packing up as one of the climbers gives his buddy a belay for the downclimb off the summit. 

Spry Canyon

Cirque Mountain & Teakettle Mountain

Cirque Mountain (left) and Teakettle Mountain (right) from Lavender Col.

Mount Spry

Blaine Basin

Beginning the descent down into Blain Basin.




Home | Peak List | Colorado | Utah