A classic 5.6 climb to a very airy summit
The Spearhead as seen on the approach. The North Ridge route more or less follows the right skyline. More difficult routes ascend the face. Luxurious bivy sites can be found amongst the boulders on the left side of the photo, but the approach takes no more than three hours and a (long) day hike is a very reasonable option.
We scrambled up the slabby 5.0 - 5.2 start of the north ridge to the pair of chimneys described by Roach. We should have roped up from the start because I got a bit nervous near the top and requested a quick belay from Dominic for a slabby 10 foot traverse to the base of the right chimney. Here Dominic is starting up the chimney on our first roped pitch.
A closer look at the steep but easy climbing in the chimney.
One of the two V-shaped slots described by Roach.
Dominic topping out after the V-shaped slot. Plenty of fun stemming opportunities here.
Dominic scrambling up the brief section of 2nd & 3rd class terrain approximately halfway up that splits up the technical climbing.
We got a bit confused higher up and ended up climbing a variation of the route described by most sources. Dominic led up right of the "standard" route and we gained the ridge proper earlier on.
Dominic trversing the north ridge toward the summit which is hidden behind the gendarme on the right.
Dominic leading up a dihedral on the small gendarme. There were some good cracks but the feet were pretty thin.
A closer look at the dihedral near the top of the north ridge.
Dominic prepares to traverse the airy summit ridge while Chiefshead towers above in the background.
Dominic carefully scrambles to the highly exposed summit block.
Pagoda Mountain as seen from The Spearhead. The standard route climbs up nasty scree and talus to the saddle left of the summit and follows the easy ridge the rest of the way. We used this as a descent route after climbing the North Buttress, the steep arete directly below the summit.
The steep arete in the center of the photo is often referred to as Pagoda Mountain's North Buttress and its a fun 5.6 - 5.7 climb that is typically done in 5 to 7 pitches. The headwall can be seen about 2/3 of the way up. It contains steep and sustained but juggy 5.6 climbing.
Dominic scooting his way back across the exposed summit ridge. The wind made it extra exciting.
Longs Peak (center) and the Keyboard of the Winds (right) as seen on our descent of The Spearhead.
Impressive McHenrys Peak as seen from The Spearhead.