Mount Spry & Spry Canyon

April 25, 2009

An unusual route to an amazing Zion summit that requires descending a technical slot canyon

Petroglyphs

Petroglyphs

Petroglyphs can be seen on the approach to Spry Canyon if you know where to look.

The East Temple

The East Temple pops into view

The East Temple is first visible on the approach to Spry Canyon and can be seen along much of the subsequent route up Mount Spry.

Twin Brothers

Early light on Twin Brothers

The early morning sun shines on Twin Brothers, an impressive, steep, slickrock mountain.

Spry Canyon Pothole

Spry Canyon Pothole

This little pothole is located near the entrance to Spry Canyon. The water was a sign of what was to come below.

Spry Canyon

Rigging the first rappel

CP rigging the first rappel in Spry Canyon. At 165 feet, it is the longest rappel of the entire descent and requires two ropes. We rapped on a full 60 meter rope (blue) and used a half 50 meter rope (green) as a pull cord.

Spry Canyon

Rappelling into Spry Canyon

CP on the initial rappel into Spry Canyon. A small trickle of water is flowing down the center of the rather low angle chute.

Spry Canyon

Avoiding the water (for now)

DB trying to stay dry at the bottom of the first rappel. A thin, downsloping ledge can be carefully negotiated to reach dry ground. It was a chilly day for wet canyoneering: in the 50's and partly overcast.

Spry Canyon

Heading down the canyon

CP & DB heading down Spry Canyon after the initial rappel. This was the mellowest part of the canyon but the forest and small pools made for interesting scenery.

Spry Canyon

Human rappel anchor

CP providing a human rappel anchor for Dwight as DB looks on. This was the first time I had rappelled from a person and I must say that it felt surprisingly solid!

Spry Canyon

Getting wet

The pool at the bottom of the second rappel was unavoidable. It was waist to chest deep depending on the person and exactly where they touched down. Here Dwight can be seen exiting the pool. Notice the marks on the right side of the canyon caused by the ropes of previous canyoneers who used a different anchor point. . The sandstone is very soft. The log jam in front of Dwight serves as the next rappel anchor. 

Spry Canyon

More water avoidance

Dwight trying hard to avoid the cold water in some small pools.

Spry Canyon

Another guided rappel

Once again Dwight rappelled this section first and was nice enough to help with a guided rappel for the rest of us. We still got wet, but we were able to touch down in a much shallower spot.

Mount Spry

Finally, Mount Spry

Mount Spry finally came into view after we'd made numerous rappels down Spry Canyon. To reach the summit we'd ascend the steep slickrock face shown in the picture. This east face route is fairly easy except for one short low 5th class pitch.

Mount Spry east face crux

Mount Spry's east face crux

DB climbing the low 5th class crux on the east face of Mount Spry. CP & Dwight were comfortable climbing this short pitch unroped while DB and I welcomed a belay.

The West Temple

The West Temple

The West Temple as seen from near the summit of Mount Spry.

Mount Spry

Final scramble to summit

Dwight, DB & CP on the final scramble to the summit of Mount Spry.

Zion Canyon

Zion Canyon

The incredible view north up Zion Canyon from the summit of Mount Spry.

Twin Brothers

Twin Brothers

View of Twin Brothers from the summit of Mount Spry. The easiest route goes up the steep slickrock face and while it is only low 5th class, extreme exposure and lack of protection opportunities make it a very serious undertaking, one that I do not aspire to at this point in my "career".

Bridge Mountain

Bridge Mountain

View of Bridge Mountain from the summit of Mount Spry. The easiest route to its summit is little more than a scramble but extreme exposure makes it a serious undertaking. I hope to find the courage to attempt it someday. UT-9 can be seen switchbacking up below Bridge Mountain toward the Zion-Mount Carmel tunnel.

Mount Spry's North Ridge

Mount Spry's North Ridge

We chose to descend Mount Spry's north ridge instead of retracing our steps down the east face. Although this route is only 4th class, the exposure above Mount Spry's vertical west face is quite extreme.

The East Temple

The East Temple

The East Temple as seen from Mount Spry's North Ridge. Unfortunately I don't quite have the skill to scale this beast. Rumor has it that the climbing isn't particularly difficult, but that its extremely spicy.

Mount Spry's North Ridge

Mount Spry's North Ridge lookout

The views from this little lookout point on Mount Spry's north ridge are simply amazing and probably my favorite of the day.

Spry Canyon

Back in Spry Canyon

After descending the North Ridge of Mount Spry we made our way back down into Spry Canyon (which required one section of bushwhacking that involved crawling through a brush tunnel). Once in the canyon, a long series of rappels ensued. My favorite of them all was down into a deep, narrow slot. I took this picture partway down. Dwight is standing at the bottom.

Spry Canyon

Rappelling into the slot

DB rappelling into the deep, dark, narrow slot.

Spry Canyon

Pulling the rope

CP pulling the rope after the long rappel into the slot.

Spry Canyon

Slot opening back up

After walking through the slot we found ourselves in the sun, a welcome reprieve from the chilly air. The next rappel (and more water) awaited us so we soaked in as much warmth as we could. The red sling in front of Dwight is part of the next rappel anchor.

Spry Canyon

Yet another rappel

DB gives CP a light belay as he rappels.

Spry Canyon

Another wet landing

Dwight on another short rappel into a skanky pool.

Spry Canyon

More water avoidance

DB disconnecting from the rappel so she can try to avoid the water below. CP watches from above.

Spry Canyon

The tension builds

Things are getting tricky for DB. That water doesn't look inviting.

Mount Spry

Mount Spry

Mount Spry as seen from UT-9. The exit of Spry Canyon is at the lowpoint on the right.

The Watchman

The Watchman

The Watchman from Springdale in evening light.




Home | Peak List | Colorado | Utah