"T11" & UN 13,159

May 8, 2009

Two easy San Juan 13ers made more challenging by spring conditions

Pikes Peak North Face

Mill Creek adventure

Pete climbing steep snow to escape a waterfall we encountered while trying to ascend the Mill Creek drainage.  A cumbersome detour allowed us to gain the drainage again above the waterfall.

Railroad Couloir

Dust layer

This year the San Juans got coated with a dust layer that blew in from the desert. Its a little ugly, but actually seemed to make the climbing a bit easier. 

Y Couloir

Top of Mill Creek

The top of the Mill Creek drainage is an interesting mini-canyon.

Y Couloir

UN 13,159

UN 13,159 as seen en route to "T11". Later in the day we ascended the ridge on the right and descended the ridge on the left.

Y Couloir

"Deception Couloir"

We climbed this couloir in hopes of it delivering us to the summit of "T11". Snow conditions were good and the slope angle near the top felt like 45 degrees. We nicknamed it "Deception Couloir" because it ended up topping out on a false summit of "T11".

Peeps

View from the couloir

A huge, precarious boulder adorned the side of the couloir. There were great San Juan views during the climb.

Y Couloir

Getting steeper

Pete concentrates as the slope angle increases near the top of the couloir. Fortunately kicking steps was fairly easy... and we'd really appreciate those nice steps Pete made when we were forced to back down the couloir.

Y Couloir

Looking down the couloir

View down the couloir from the top.

Y Couloir

Topping out

Dwight topping out of the couloir. From here it was a short scramble to the false summit.

Topping out Y Couloir

Oops!

While the couloir did deliver us to a great summit with spectacular views, it was not the true summit of "T11" which could be seen a quarter mile to the west. Unfortunately steep cliffs blocked passage and we had to retreat the way we came.

Topping out Y Couloir

Descending the couloir

Pete descending the middle part of the couloir where the slope angle decreases.

Topping out Y Couloir

"T11" ridge

Looking back at the ridge that connects "T11" with its deceptive sub-summit. Traversing it was not an option.

Topping out Y Couloir

"T11" east face

Pete and Dwight climbing up the east face of "T11"

Topping out Y Couloir

"T11" false summit

Dwight making his way up the east face of "T11". The false summit we climbed by mistake and the impossible connecting ridge can be seen behind him.

Topping out Y Couloir

West ridge of UN 13,159

Dwight and Pete starting up the rather docile west ridge of UN 13,159 .

Topping out Y Couloir

Lookout Mountain

Impressive Lookout Mountain from UN 13,159. This peak is a short 3rd class scramble from Ophir Pass which is out of the picture on the lefthand side.

Topping out Y Couloir

Topping out on UN 13,159

Pete and Dwight nearing the rocky summit of UN 13,159. Large blocks on the ridge required some easy scrambling.

Topping out Y Couloir

"T11"

"T11" as seen on the hike down the northeast ridge of UN 13,159. The true summit is the point on the left, but the point on the right isn't much lower and actually looks higher from many vantage points. The couloir we climbed is slightly right of center in the photo. The true summit was a much easier climb!




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