Uncompahgre Peak

January 9-11, 2010

The second successful 14er climb of a three day trip

Uncompahgre at dawn

Uncompahgre Peak and its south ridge at dawn. The pointy bump on the far right is UN 13,158. We broke trail to the top of the pass southeast of Matterhorn Peak the day before so we could cruise it in the dark this morning. As planned, we reached the end of the broken track at first light.

Wetterhorn & Matterhorn

Wetterhorn Peak (left) and Matterhorn Peak (right) as seen from the east  just before sunrise. Below them  is the pass used to access Uncompahgre Peak from the Matterhorn drainage.

Heading for Uncompahgre

Dominic heading for Uncompahgre early in the morning. We climbed to the notch on the right side of the photo to gain the south ridge and standard route to the summit.

Scree slopes below the notch

Dominic hiking toward the uninviting scree slopes below the notch in Uncompahgre's south ridge. The shallow snow patches provided some relief on the otherwise loose ascent.

Heading for the notch

Deep, boulder-filled snowfields slowed progress a bit.

Summit plateau

Hiking along the trail on Uncompahgre's southweast face toward the massive summit plateau.

On Uncompahgre's south ridge

Dominic high on Uncompahgre's south ridge.

West Face

Following the trail onto Uncompahgre's west face.

Crux

The crux of Uncompahgre's standard route is 150 feet of loose, steep rock. The bottom portion was covered with firm snow.

Loose steps

Dominic hikes up the loose rock steps on the easy crux.

View toward Wetterhorn

View toward Wetterhorn Peak from high on Uncompahgre Peak.

Nearing the summit

Nearing the huge summit plateau.

Wetterhorn & Matterhorn

Wetterhorn Peak and Matterhorn Peak as seen from Uncompahgre Peak.

Uncompahgre summit

Dominic on the summitof Uncompahgre.

Heading down

Heading down Uncompahgre's south ridge.

Descending from the notch

Descending scree and talus slopes below the notch. 

Parting shot of Uncompahgre

View of Uncompahgre Peak as we hike back to camp along Matterhorn Creek.

Camp

Camp at 11,150 feet along the Matterhorn Creek Trail. Wetterhorn Peak is in the background. Note Dominic's t-shirt. It was HOT!




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